Tiramisu, one of Italy’s most iconic desserts, boasts a fascinating history rooted in various recipes and interpretations over time. From the earliest egg-and-sugar versions to the layered dessert we know today, this famous dessert has traversed epochs and revolutions, undergoing a series of transformations that bear witness to the creativity of Italian cuisine.
Simple origins: the “Sbatudin”
Before the birth of tiramisu proper, it was common to prepare Sbatudin, a simple but nutritious preparation made from beaten egg yolk and whipped with sugar. Consumed as a restorative, it was especially appreciated by children, who also enjoyed it accompanied by some dry biscuits.
Sbatudin with coffee
It seems that as early as the 19th century, people in the surroundings of Treviso used to prepare this cream with surprising powers. Grandmothers and mothers, then, loved to make the cream unique by enriching it with ingredients chosen according to family tastes: coffee, liqueur, butter, ricotta cheese, cocoa and much more.
This ‘poor’ tradition is the basis on which subsequent evolutions of the dessert have developed.
A great innovation: “Dolce Livenza”
At the beginning of the 1900s, in Sacile (PN), a dessert took shape that could be considered the ancestor of tiramisu: the so-called Dolce Livenza. It is a dessert highly appreciated by the local population, a recipe that families have jealously guarded for more than a century.
Mrs. Sandra Micheletto, a native of the area, has preserved and passed down the recipe of Grandma Catina (her mother’s mother-in-law, who ran a local tavern) in her precious recipe book, dating back to the early 1900s.
Grandma Catina’s preparation includes the following ingredients: sponge cake, egg yolk, sweetened coffee, sugar, sweet cream, cocoa, and cognac or rum.
The current recipe, the result of its evolution over the years, appears very similar to that of the modern tiramisu: eggs, sugar, ladyfingers soaked in coffee, cocoa and sweet cream. So where is the difference? At a time when mascarpone was not yet common, the cream was prepared mainly with cream or in some cases with ricotta.
“Tirime su”: known as Coppa Vetturino
In 1935, the Coppa Vetturino was created, later documented in the 1950s on a poster under the name “Tirime su,” a spoon dessert served at the “Trattoria al Vetturino” by Mario Cosolo in Pieris di San Canzian d’Isonzo (GO). It is said that this dessert was first served to the King of Italy, Vittorio Emanuele III, by Mario Cosolo, who worked as a pastry chef aboard the royal yacht Savoia.
Coppa Vetturino – source: ersa.fvg.it
This dessert had a creamier texture and was less layered. It is a semifreddo served in a cup, made with sponge cake, zabaglione cream, cocoa-infused whipped cream, dry Marsala wine, and cocoa powder.
Il “Tirimi sù”: a dessert with mascarpone
Tirimi sù – source: cover of the book “Il Tiramisù, Tolmezzo e la Carnia” by P. G. Avanzato
In 1950 in Tolmezzo (Udine), precisely at the “Albergo Ristorante Roma” then run by Giuseppe Del Fabbro and Norma Pielli, the preparation of a dessert called Trancio al mascarpone (dessert with mascarpone) was already widespread and very popular with customers. It was much more similar in structure to the modern tiramisu, as it was served in slices. Later the dessert took on the name Tirimi sù, as can be seen on the bills of the time. Apparently, the name came from some customers who, after a day’s skiing, noticed how particularly invigorating this dessert was.
The ingredients of this preparation include: eggs (yolk and white), sugar, mascarpone, ladyfingers, coffee, bitter cocoa.
In 2017, the Friulian versions of tiramisu were officially registered as P.A.T. (Traditional Agri-Food Products) of the Friuli Venezia Giulia region.
Coppa Imperiale
Coppa Imperiale – source: YouTube myTiramisu
In 1958, in Treviso, the Hotel Al Foghér introduced the Coppa Imperiale, a more refined creation that closely resembled the texture and ingredients of modern tiramisu, featuring an undisclosed liqueur (some claim it was Armagnac, others Grand Marnier).
The owner and chef, Speranza Bon Garatti, had been serving “crema al mascarpone” (mascarpone cream) since the early 1950s. This cream, layered over sponge cake, moka coffee, dark chocolate powder, and a splash of liqueur, was served in a champagne coupe and called Coppetta della Casa.
On September 25, 1958, Princess Aspasia Manos of Greece stopped for breakfast and was delighted by this dessert. From that moment on, in her honor, the name of the sweet treat was permanently changed to Coppa Imperiale della Casa.
Treviso Tiramisù – he birth of the modern tiramisu
The decisive step came in 1972, when “Le Beccherie” restaurant in Treviso, in the Veneto region, proposed Tirame su on its menu: it was the version we know today. This definitive recipe combines ladyfingers soaked in coffee, mascarpone cheese, egg yolk, bitter cocoa and sugar, a mouth-watering mix that quickly became popular throughout Italy and the world.
Its origins go back a few years, to 1955, when Alba Campeol (then owner of the restaurant) was expecting her son Carlo. To help her regain her strength, her mother-in-law prepared a nutritious breakfast of zabaglione and coffee for her every morning, a real concentration of energy to face the day. Together with the pastry chef Roberto “Loli” Linguanotto, she started a long period of experimentation, which ended between 1971 and 1972: the decisive moment came when, after numerous attempts with cream, ricotta, and other ingredients, Alba and Linguanotto opted for the use of fresh mascarpone in the cream. In the same year, Le Beccherie restaurant participated in the Milan Trade Fair (now Expo), presenting a menu including Tiramesù.
The Tiramisù – source: lebeccherie.it
The recipe includes egg yolk, mascarpone, ladyfingers, sugar, coffee and cocoa powder, and suggests that the dessert should preferably be in the shape of a round cake.
In 2024, Treviso-style tiramisù was included in the list of P.A.T. (Traditional Agri-Food Products) of Veneto by the Ministry of Agricultural and Food Policies, following the original recipe.
The evolution of tiramisù shows how a dessert can transform and adapt over time while always preserving its original essence. From the simple ingredients of rural tradition to the refined versions found in restaurants, tiramisù has become a symbol of Italian pastry, loved by people of all ages across the globe.
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